HONG KONG, BABY!

We've just arrived at our next destination- HONG KONG!!! After all the bacterial infections and watching people pee and poop all over the place I told Tim I needed something totally different if he wanted to keep traveling and not go home right away, so we chose Hong Kong. I can't believe how different it is from anywhere else we've been to on this trip. HK is so clean, so busy, stuff is easy to find, people obey traffic laws and use the crosswalks (I've missed the green man!). That said, it's also way more expensive than East Africa, Egypt, Jordan, and India so we're limiting ourselves to 10 days. Just enough time to fall in love with Hong Kong, before all the bad stuff gets annoying.

Arriving late at night was pretty cool, as I was able to check out the skyscrapers' lights reflecting on the water as we traveled by express train from the airport to Kowloon. From there we actually queued up for a taxi- we lined up inside a hallway with glass doors on either side and a man in front directing us to the correct door beyond which was a taxi! It was so weird to be calmly standing in line, no one pressed up against you and no one cutting in front. It was also weird to drive through the town at midnight and see how clean the alleyways were by Egyptian and Indian standards and, this is important, no one. was. peeing. or. pooping. anywhere. srsly.

This morning we wandered a bit in search of a cheap breakfast (alas, I get the feeling we'll be doing a lot of searching for good, cheap food) and it was so nice! You could actually walk on the sidewalks! No stalls or piles of garbage to walk over, no huge holes or mysterious puddles to watch out for, no poops from various animals to be careful of. I mean, you have no idea how awesome it is to just walk on the sidewalk and not have to walk in the gutter/street dodging cars, bikes, and motorbikes (OK- some of you do, of course). Oh, it was so nice to be able to look about you at the tall buildings, storefronts, windows full of fatty cooked ribs and ducks with crispy skins or windows full of beautiful jade and diamond jewelry (sometimes next to each other), and signs. There's garbage bins everywhere! And people use them!

Oh, I think I'm going to like it here. :-)

What Have I Learned?

I guess you shouldn't be surprised when I tell you that a teacher-friend of mine asked this of me on Facebook. I mean, we're all about learning, right? Anyway, he was the first one to ask me that, so he made me think about it in a way I hadn't before. Sure, I felt that I would learn something from this trip- who wouldn't? And, I felt that I probably had learned something by now, but hadn't put it to words.

So, Hugo, wherever you are, thank you for giving me the opportunity to think about....

What Have I Learned?

*No matter what the background, everyone wants the same thing- a decent job, some dignity, the ability to support a family.

*People are basically nice. To date, I've never encountered any flak for being American.

*I really don't need a closet full of clothes nor do I need an apartment full of stuff to be happy.

*I may be traveling with only one bag of possessions, but I've seen people who own a whole lot less.

*More people than you think still rely on wooden carts being pulled by donkeys, oxen, or camels.

*And, they live in mud and straw houses. Srsly.

*And, they sweep with bundles of reeds only 2ft long.

*You can fit an entire family of 4 on one motorcycle.

*I like school kids, no matter where they are from.

*As Americans, we are very isolated. We don't have to worry about attacks from neighboring countries, refugees flooding in across the borders (whatever # of illegal aliens we get, it's not what other countries in Africa or India get), cholera epidemics, or a government so corrupt that it would rather see the entire nation die of hunger and thirst than change.

*America is diverse, yet we don't have bloody clashes involving whole cities or states over ethnicity or religion.

*Democracy isn't always the answer. Some countries have wonderful monarchies and, for lack of a better word, dictators who genuinely care for the well-being of their people.

*Many countries rely on man-, woman-, and even childpower to build skyscrapers and repair roads.

*What I've paid for one cup of coffee in a Western-style coffeeshop in Egypt, Jordan, and India is about what one person earns in a day in that country.

*In America EVERYONE can have the opportunities to improve their lives by hard work and education. (hello, President Obama) That is not the case in many of the countries I've seen.

*Not enough Americans travel internationally, and those that do seem to stick to Europe.

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That is a good start. Some of you may be asking what kind of lessons will I carry with me or how will these experiences affect my life, but I think I'll have to wait until I get home to find out.

Desert Adventures

Western India is mostly desert and in Rajasthan, camels are very important beasts of burden. So, Froody and I had to take a camel safari in the Thar desert. Actually, we only spent one day and one night in the desert, but after 5 hours of camel riding, it was plenty.

While in Bikaner (former capital of Rajasthan), we stayed here at Vijay's Guesthouse. We had a good time and Vijay was a jovial host, sharing drinks with us on the veranda in the evenings. He was our guide of a day and took us to the neighboring sights, including the Karni Mata temple. It's also known as the rat temple and it's someplace I've been wanting to see for ages. It isn't as big as I thought it would be, but it was crawling with rats! We went in the late afternoon when the crowds were less and the rats were more active. Vijay said he's seen the white rat, but that was 17 years ago. We didn't see it, but enjoyed seeing rat-enthusiasm taken to the extreme! Everyone was praying to the rats. There was one very holy inner-sanctum we weren't allowed into, but I peeked in and saw a woman bowing in front of a shrine, with rats pouring out of it. Vijay said that here Western tourists aren't very common, so some people show Froody (and Pietr) a lot of interest.

India- Not So Bad?

Well, now that I've been out of the hospital for a couple of weeks and we've got our tickets for our next stop-HONG KONG-India isn't so bad. I mean, I still grumble every time I see someone pissing or pooping (which is quite a bit), but at least I'm able to see the good stuff, too. Like birdwatching in Keoladeo National Reserve, where we hired a guide for the three days we spent there. He was very knowledgeable and showed us over 70 different species of birds.

The tiger safari in Ranthambore wasn't that bad, either. We saw several large mammals, like the sambhar deer and black faced-langur monkeys. I saw a wild tiger. Froody would have, too, but I think he was busy trying to take pictures of it.

This is what 1.2 billion people feels like. Actually, this is the mela (festival) our friends took us too. Froody and I even tried out a McDonald's. No beef, of course. Froody got a chicken royale. This looks better, though: a thali bought at a restaurant where we were the only western tourists.

Internet use in Delhi is more than what it seems. Anyway, our last day in Delhi before heading for Rajasthan was spent walking around the presidental palace and hanging out at the India Gate. Pretty, isn't it?

Oh, India. Where Danger Lurks Inside Every Meal and Snack

I expected some adventure on this trip, but I didn't think there was danger in each mouthful. Froody and I just spent another week in the hospital. This time I had a bacterial infection and Froody had that plus giardia. bleh. I felt as pathetic as I looked. That IV really, really hurt! These infections have kind of extinguished what little remaining enthusiasm I had for India. One of the two things I am looking forward to is the Kari Mata, India's infamous rat temple. Gosh! I just realized that going someplace infested with rats, with floors made extra gooey and gross from thousands of rats running around, probably isn't conducive to maintaining good health. Froody and I are also determined to see the Himalayas. But I am heartily glad knowing we leave soon.

So, here are some of the pictures Froody's taken these past couple of weeks.

* View on the train to Agra.

* A pair of rose-ringed parakeets. These birds are everywhere, but we love them anyway.

* Some remaining blue tile on a mughal-era tomb, the Chini-Ka-Razza.

* Sandstone and marble gate to the Itimad-Ud-Daulah, aka the Baby Taj. We loved the detailed inlay work and how quiet and peaceful it was around the monument.

* Our driver brought us to a "marble institute" where we got to see how the tiny semi-precious stone pieces for the inlay in the Taj Mahal was made. Yup, it's still made the same way and looks like a lot of difficult, painful work. It surprised me how much Froody liked the marble work, and we bought a couple of souvenirs.

* Next day we went to the Jama Masjid in Fatehpur Sikri fort. The Jama Masjid is a huge mosque. The fort had a palace and other rooms full of beautiful carvings. Oh, better pic of the gate.

* The. Taj. Mahal. It's one of those place I NEVER thought I'd ever see. It's more beautiful than I expected. It's a tomb for one woman, the favorite wife of Shah Jahan.


* Also saw some Egyptian vultures when we were there.

* Froody ate all of this huge thali- metal plate with different types of breads, rice, and sauces.

Traveling. Is. Work.

I know. You're sitting there, reading this and you're thinking, "No way is what you're doing work." I know you are and it's OK. But I'm here to tell you that long-term traveling is work. Really. It must be, because Froody and I are tired a lot the time.

Part of it is doing all the actual stuff you wanted to do in that country. Sometimes this requires getting up early- butt-early according to Froody. You get up early to catch a plane, train, or sunrise. Or safari or tour. Or bus. Or check out because you checked in at 6:30am and the hotel has a 24hr check in/out policy.

Part of it is all the learning you do. Where is the hotel? Where are the restaurants? How much should a taxi/tuk-tuk/rickshaw cost? How do you say "hello," "good-bye," and "thank you" in this language? What is the exchange rate? How do you get there? Is this a large or small bill? Where is the bus station? What are we doing here? How badly are we being ripped off? Are we still on budget?

Part of it is just dealing. It gets tiring saying "no thank you" all the time. And I feel bad because I'm probably offending 1 in 50 people who are truly trying to help and not sell me something. Not to mention dealing with all the cultural differences, like giving up my personal space and wondering where all the women are. Or trying to make room for the mother and two boys seated next to me on the train. (Mom only bought one seat, so she's half on mine.) And, it's hard having beggars grab me. And, it's hard when the child beggars are not begging for money but for whatever food you just bought. And begging for money.

And dealing with each other. Sometimes Froody gets grumpy and it takes all my energy
not to get angry with him. Sometimes I get cranky and it takes all my energy not to take it out on Froody. Sometimes we get on each other's nerves and there's nowhere to go to get away from each other.


Froody and I like to blog and that takes time. So does uploading all the pictures Froody takes. So does packing up in order to leave the hotel. So does writing postcards. And if we decide not to do anything, we feel guilty because shouldn't we be seeing the sights?

Anyway, this is a lot different than a regular vacation. But, I'd do it again. :-)

Delhi, Part 2

So, just showing you all some more pix, then I'll be able to tell you what I've been doing this last week.

* Just outside our hotel room were these guys, waving stuff and whistling. We think there are pigeons involved.

* The Red Fort is another major Delhi sight. It's made of red sandstone, but back in the day it was covered with painted plaster, and gold leaf. This is wherethe throne sat in the public audience pavillion.

*The private audience pavillion at the Red Fort. It's made of white marble and used to be covered in semiprecious stone inlay work. A lot of it was looted, of course.

* How cool is this door handle?

* All this was behind the Fort walls.

* Of course, there are sacred cows everywhere. This one was looking very majestic. These are window shopping, which is what I like to do, too.